North America, United States, Alaska, Foraker, Dan Beard, The Roster Comb

Publication Year: 1981.

Foraker, Dan Beard, The Rooster Comb. There were four successful expeditions on Mount Foraker, including the first guided ascent of the southeast ridge by John Rehmer and Jon Wells led by Gary Bocarde. Two other groups that also climbed the southeast ridge in May were Mark Udall and Mike Young; and Chas and Anne Macquarie and Dale Bard. The second group also climbed P 12,380. The climb of Foraker’s northeast ridge is given below. Two groups were successful on a route up the southwest spur and onto the south face of Dan Beard. The first party was led by Bill Kitson and the second was composed of Jeff Radford, Norma Green, Dave Jones and one other. Two Anchorage climbers, David Kampfer and Grant Henke, were killed in a fall off the south face in late May, attempting to repeat the route. Evidence suggests that the pair were resting together at the saddle when a cornice broke, dropping them into a steep mixed gully to the east. They fell 2500 vertical feet. The other successful climb of Dan Beard was made in early June by Dave Staehli and Dave Stewart up the standard “backside” route from the northwest fork of the Ruth Glacier.

David M. Buchanan

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