American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, USSR, Yugoslav Climbs in the Yazgulem Glacier Area, Pamir

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Yugoslav Climbs in the Yazgulem Glacier Area, Pamir. Our group of 14 climbed in the central Pamir from the same camp as Polish, Czechoslovakian and Soviet climbers during the second half of July and the beginning of August. In spite of relatively bad weather, we did some fine climbs. The new routes follow. Filip Bence, Slavko Frantar, Marija Sabolek and I on July 19 to 21 made a new route on the north face of LjapNazar (19,647 feet) with two bivouacs, which were forced on us by the bad weather. The 4500-foot-high route was ice of 40° to 60°. The brothers, Franci and Janko Arh, and Rajmond Kovac made the first ascent of P 5741 (18,835 feet) from July 22 to 24 via the ice south face and the east ridge. From July 24 to 26 Bence, Frantar and Marija Sabolek climbed a new route on the south face of P 6002 (19,691 feet) and ascended to its previously unclimbed summit. After that they traversed to the Peak of Paris Commune and descended its south face. The ice on P 6002 averaged 55° with pitches of 70°. The brothers Arh, Kovac, Peter Poljanec and Emil Tratnik climbed a new 4000-foot line on the south face of the Peak of Paris Commune (20,847 feet) on July 27 to 29. The ice was 50° with pitches of 60°. Bence, Frantar, Herzog, Marija Sabolek and Franc Ster climbed the couloir between the Peak of 26 Commissars of Baku (22,418 feet) and Revolution Peak (22,881 feet) during July 30 to August 3. The 7250-foot-high couloir is very steep with pitches of 70° and 80° and is exposed to avalanches. The rise to the summit of Revolution Peak is some 8500 feet. The Arh brothers, Kovac, Poljanec, Leo Svetlicic, Tratnik and I made the second ascent of the Staroseltsev route on Revolution Peak South (22,802 feet) by the south ridge from August 1 to 4.

Jure Ulcar, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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