American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Kohe Shakhaur, Kohe Nadir Shah, M2 and M3, 1975

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Kohe Shakhaur, Kohe Nadir Shah, M2 and M3, 1978. On July 31, 1978 our expedition from Brno placed Base Camp at 13,000 feet in the Shakhaur valley. We climbed alpine-style, making mostly new routes. Our first climbs for acclimatization were west of Kohe Shakhaur, where we established a camp at 16,400 feet. On August 7 Piotr Bednarík, Jaroslava Tallová and I climbed M3 (20,042 feet) by its east ridge from Camp II in the col at 18,375 feet. Karel Cídl and Tomáš Skricka repeated the route the next day. Also on August 7 Jirí Beneš and Jan Krch climbed the north face of M3, an ice face averaging 40° but with passages of 80°. On August 7 and 8 Jiri Ružicka and Vilém Schwab climbed M2 (21,076 feet) by its east ridge, which had some 50° ice, and continued along the ridge to M3. Cídl and Bednarík climbed the 1962 Polish route on Kohe Nadir Shah (22,356 feet) on August 9 and 10. The last acclimatization climb was made by Beneš, Tallová and me when on August 12 and 13 we did the first ascent of the north face of Kohe Nadir Shah. The 3500-foot wall was mixed and with some 70° ice. On August 16 Bednarík made the first ascent solo of the 5000-foot northeast face of Kohe Shakhaur, which had difficult climbing of 65° ice, reached the northwest ridge at 21,650 feet and continued along the ridge to the summit (23,347 feet). Two pairs, Ružicka-Schwab and Cídl-Skricka began on August 15 to ascend the French route on the north ridge of Kohe Shakhaur. The first pair reached the top on August 18 and the second on the 19th. On August 18 Krch, Tallovâ and I began the first ascent of the northwest face, a route between the two previously mentioned ones. We started late and bivouacked under the rock buttress. Although Tallovâ was struck by rockfall, we completed the climb, some on 70° ice. The most difficult climb was that of the 10,000-foot face of Shakhaur, which was avalanche-threatened. It was done by Beneš and Bednarík on August 21 to 23. After reaching the summit, they continued along the ridge to Udren Zom (23,396 feet), returned and descended the French ridge. On August 25 Ružicka and Schwab climbed Kohe-Hawar (20,286 feet) from the south.

Sylva Talla, Czechoslovakia

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