American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Hindu Kush, Peaks East of Tirich Mir, 1975

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Peaks East of Tirich Mir, 1978. My wife and I, the only ones finally to make the trip, were beset with many problems while driving toward the Hindu Kush and had to alter our plans. Lacking a firm attachment to the cliffs, the shelf-road between Chitral and Knoll was badly damaged in parts by the severe monsoon, which penetrated in the Hindu Kush. We joined up with the Polish expedition to get along the road better. We had to repair stretches of the road and relay loads ourselves. Abandoning our original goal, we went with the Poles to the North Barum Glacier. I soloed three peaks which I believe were unclimbed, all about 6000 meters (19,685 feet). On July 22, 1978, from a bivouac I climbed a peak about five miles east of Tirich Mir between the North Barum and Lono Glaciers. The second peak was southwest of the first, about a kilometer toward Tirich Mir. I climbed this on July 27. To reach my third peak I went up the South Barum Glacier to the Japanese Camp I and from there on July 30 I went directly south up a glacier to a col and along the west ridge to the summit.

Harry Rost, Deutscher Alpenverein

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