P 6206, Thui Group. James Fotheringham and I climbed P 6206 (20,360 feet), which is situated between Thui I and Thui II. We went from Base Camp at Sholtali along the Aghost Bar Glacier to the Qualandar Gum Glacier and from there directly onto the south face, which is over 5000 feet high. We left Base Camp early on June 20 and spent the first night at the foot of the face at about 14,500 feet. The second day took us halfway up the face, where we were fortunate to find an ice cave that made an ideal bivouac. We reached the summit at about two P.M. on June 22 and got back to the ice cave by seven o’clock. We spent the next two days retracing our steps back to Base Camp. The first half of the face was relatively straightforward except for a maze of crevasses and schrunds at the bottom. It was the second half which was interesting, especially near the top, where the difficulties were of Scottish Grade 4.
Ian Tattersall, England