American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Hindu Raj, Buni Zom

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Buni Zom. Joe Reinhard and I made an ascent of the main peak of Buni Zom (21,494 feet or 6551 meters) in August. From Base Camp at Kulakmali in the Phargam Gol we climbed through a rock barrier to reach the Khorabar Glacier on the west side of Buni Zom. We set up a high camp at 18,000 feet. We first attempted the north ridge of Buni Zom but after reaching the col between the main and north summits, we found the upper ridge too dangerous due to deep, soft snow. We then climbed the south face of the mountain by a steep snow couloir which joins the west ridge at around 21,000 feet. This gave a reasonably straightforward climb of UIAA III difficulty. We descended the same route. We also climbed Khorabar Zom (19,193 feet or 5850 meters) and Panorama Peak (18,668 feet or 5690 meters), both easy ascents and good viewpoints.

Richard J. Isherwood, Alpine Club

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