American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Dobani

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Dobani. Isao Ikeuchi and I climbed Dobani (20,158 feet), 15 miles southeast of Rakaposhi, on June 9. Each of us carried one big sack during the expedition, limiting our equipment and food, but this was an advantage since it made it inexpensive. On May 2 we established Base Camp on the Gutumi Glacier at 11,500 feet. We started to attempt the north ridge on May 4, reaching a col on the north ridge the next day. We got to below a foresummit of 15,750 feet on May 7. Deteriorating weather held us up for two days. The ridge from there to the top was very precipitous and so we gave up. On May 21 we established a new Base Camp at 13,450 feet on the Kuturi Glacier, southwest of the peak. On May 24 we climbed the south ridge to 16,000 feet, where we camped. We were held up by the weather for two days. On May 27 we climbed to 17,000 feet but the ridge became too precipitous for us to climb with our few pitons. On the way back we descended directly down the west face of the ridge. On June 6 we reestablished Base Camp in the same place. On June 7 we set out for the west face with food for five days. We bivouacked in a crevasse in the middle of the west face. On the 8th we camped on the col in the north ridge below the summit. On June 9 we climbed a snow face to reach the summit at ten A.M.

Masaru Hashimoto, Japanese Alpine Club

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