American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Pasu Peak, 1975

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Pasu Peak, 1978. The then unclimbed 23,897-foot Pasu Peak, above picturesque Hunza valley, was the target of the Pakistani-Japanese Services Expedition, sponsored by the Defence Academy Alpine Club of Japan and the Alpine Club of Pakistan. It had been attempted by Japanese in 1974. Our group included Japanese Captain Chitoshi Ando, leader, Lieutenants Isao Fukura, Susimu Shinmayo, Koichi Wakui, Sau Yamada and Masato Inove and Pakistanis Captains Sher Khan, Ehtesham Anwar and Inayat Wali, Saad Tariq Siddiqui, Dr. Faiz Aman, Flight Lieutenant Mohammed Ismail and Major Manzoor Hussain as deputy leader. We reached Pasu village on June 1, 1978. After reconnoitering Pasu Glacier for two days, we started the approach march on June 4, establishing Base Camp on June 5 on the western side of Pasu Glacier at 13,200 feet. The main summit of Pasu Peak, not visible except from the highest camps, lay six miles away from Base Camp. Camp I was established on June 10 on the upper Pasu Glacier at 14,000 feet at the foot of icefalls. The route between Camps I and II was the most difficult and dangerous of the entire climb. At several places ladders were utilized. Camp II (Advanced Base Camp) was established on June 18 on a big snowfield above the icefalls at 16,000 feet. The route to Camp III, which was established on June 22 at 19,000 feet, led up a gentle ice slope. Camp IV, set up on June 30, was at 20,500 feet on the top of the ridge which joins Pasu Peak and Shipare. The summit of Pasu Peak, visible from Camp IV, rose steeply as an icy pyramid. Camp V was placed at the foot of the pyramid at 22,000 feet on July 2. The summit party was to have been Ando, Wakui, Inove, Yamada, Sher Khan, Anwar, Wali and Manzoor Hussain. On the morning of the 3rd Manzoor fell victim to bronchitis and dehydration and Anwar stayed behind to attend him. The rest left for the summit, climbing the steep ice as fast as possible. The team stood on the rocky, sharp-edged summit at 1:15 of July 3, 1978.

Alpine Club of Pakistan

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