American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Rakaposhi, North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Rakaposhi, North Ridge. A Japanese Waseda University expedition of seven was led by Eiho Ohtani. They climbed the north ride, which had been unsuccessfully attempted in 1971 by Dr. Herrligkoffer’s German expedition. Base Camp was established at 12,150 feet on June 15 and Camp I at 15,750 feet on a col in the north ridge on June 19. Camps II, III and IV were placed at 17,400, 19,000 and 21,000 feet on June 26, July 8 and 13 respectively. A 500-foot rock band was bypassed by means of a couloir and Camp V was pitched at 23,000 feet on July 25. Camp VI was placed above a 150-foot ice step at 23,950 feet on July 31. On August 1 Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita bivouacked at 24,925 feet and reached the summit (25,550 feet) on August 2, where they found signs of the Poles, lwa To Yuki N° 72 has an account.

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