American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Lupghar Sar West and Central

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Lupghar Sar West and Central. Our group was made up of Dr. Masatsugu Otaishi, Isao Uchida, Tatsuo Nazuka, Yuichi Watanabe, Kunio Kataoka, Hitoshi Shimizu, Toshiyuki Kawasaki and me as leader. We left Nagar on June 16 with 88 porters and got to Base Camp at 15,100 feet on the Gharesa Glacier on June 20. We climbed the southwest ridge over the west peak. From 20,000 to 20,675 feet and from 21,325 to 22,650 feet the loose rock was very dangerous. Camps I, II, III and IV were established at 18,375, 19,850, 21,150 and 22,975 feet on July 4, 19, 30 and August 3 respectively. The central peak was a mile beyond the west peak along a knife-edged snow ridge. On August 4 Nazuka, Watanabe and Shimizu left Camp IV at five A.M., got to the west summit at seven A.M. and to the central summit at 10:20 A.M. The three summits are nearly of the same altitude, but we guess that the central peak is slightly higher.

Masakatsu Doi, Hosei University Mountaineering Club, Japan

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