American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Trivor Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Trivor Attempt. Our expedition organized by the Czechoslovak Mountain Federation was led by me and composed of 14 climbers. We went to Nagar by Jeep and continued with 110 porters up the Gharesa valley and the Trivor (Gharesa) Glacier to Base Camp below the west side of Trivor (23,622 feet). We got there on June 28. Reconnaissance was very difficult due to heavy clouds on the massif. We explored the area below the west face but found the area endangered by hanging glaciers. We then turned to the south buttress. Camp I was at the upper end of the glacier. The route to where Camp II would have been in a saddle on the buttress was climbed but it was obvious that technical difficulties were such that some 15,000 feet of fixed rope would have been needed. We turned to the Anglo-American route on the west ridge, by which the mountain was climbed in 1960. Camp I was placed on the glacier on July 14 and Camp II above the dangerous icefall on the 16th. Bad weather and heavy snowfall stopped all climbing until July 24. Camp III was placed in the col between Trivor and Momhil Sar and Camps IV and V on the ridge. To reach the summit from there would have required one more camp. Approaching bad weather made us give up the climb.

Jirí Foltanek, Czechoslovak Mountaineering Federation

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