American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Pumari Chhish

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Pumari Chhish. Our expedition was composed of Susumu Ogasawara, Hideo Yokoyama, Yoshimasa Chiba, Katsutoshi Kariya, Kenji Hirooka, Koichi Minami, Michio Hayashi, Michihiro Kanno, Mitsuo Shiroishi, Masaki Ohashi, Shigeki Chiba and me as leader. We placed Temporary Base Camp at 13,775 feet and Base Camp on June 19 at 14,100 feet on the Kunyang Glacier. Camp I was also on the Kunyang Glacier at 17,400 feet at the foot of the pass to the Yazghil Glacier. The 2300-foot icefall leading to the col, where we placed Camp II at 19,700 feet, averages almost 60°. It took four days to prepare this part of the route with fixed ropes. Camp III was also at 19,700 feet, at the foot of the north ridge of Pumari Chhish on the upper Yazghil Glacier. The snow slope to Camp IV averaged 50° and took four days to prepare. Camp IV was established on July 14 on a fore-peak at 22,650 feet. In all we fixed 7500 feet of rope. On July 15 Yokoyama, Mimami, Ohashi and H. Chiba climbed to the top, followed on July 17 by Ogasawara, Y. Chiba, Hayashi, Kanno and Shiroishi. From Base Camp to the summit was 12 miles. We had difficulty over porter pay for four days in Nagar, finally paying 80 rupees per day plus 20 rupees for the return.

Takao Sasaki, M.D., Japan Hokkaido Alpine Association

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