American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Latok III

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Latok III. The following were members of the Latok III expedition: Kazushige Takami, Sakae Mori, Kiyukaza Kitamura, Keiso Sadatomo, Naoki Ohudaira and I as leader. We climbed the mountain from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier via the southwest ridge, which had repelled another Japanese expedition in 1978. We placed Camp I at 15,100 feet on the glacier on June 25 and proceeded up a steep snow couloir to establish Camp II on June 27 at 16,750 feet on the snow below the main peak. Camp III was placed at 20,000 feet on July 3. Above Camp III there were three ice grooves. We took the right-hand one and placed Camp IV on July 10 at 22,000 feet at the foot of the final 1000-foot-high rock wall. Above Camp IV we took the center crack system. It took two days to work out the route up to the final snow ridge. On July 15 Takami, Mori and I reached the summit (22,475 feet).

Yoji Teranishi, Japanese Alpine Club

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