American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Skamri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Skamri. Our expedition was composed of Tetsuo Nogami, Norio Fukuda, Saburo Mitsumoto, Miss Tomoko Aoyagi, Mrs. Atsuko Shibata, Miss Noriko Furusawa and me as leader. We ascended the Panmah and Drenmang Glaciers. Base Camp was placed on the side of the Drenmang at 14,100 feet on June 21. Skamri has three summits. We took the south ridge to the highest peak, the east (22,100 feet). Camp I was established on June 30 on the south branch of the Drenmang Glacier at 15,425 feet at the foot of the south ridge, Camp II on July 10 at 17,225 feet above a 50° ice slope on the ridge, Camp II on July 12 at 18,375 feet just above an 80-foot ice wall and Camp III on July 19 at 20,350 feet above a couloir which rose through massive rock on the eastern side of the ridge. On June 20 Nogami and Fukada climbed to the summit after a struggle with fragile frost on deep snow on the steep, narrow ridge. A second attempt was abandoned because of bad weather.

Tadashi Kamei, Yokohama Alpine Club, Japan

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