American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Teram Kangri III

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Teram Kangri III. Our expedition was composed of Masatoshi Sato, Zenzo Shikanai, Mitsutaka Kudo, Masanori Oka, Takayoshi Sato, Osamu Nonomura, Tetsuo Hasegawa, Junji Kurotaki, Kenji Nikko, Akira Marui, Gaku Ishi and me as leader. We left Khapalu on June 1 with 150 porters. Despite porter troubles, we crossed the Bilafond La and the Siachen Glacier to establish Base Camp at 16,900 feet on the Teram Glacier on June 26. We placed Camp I at 17,850 feet at the foot of the gully on the right side of the south ridge. Camp II was above the gully on the ridge at 19,850 feet. After fixing rope, we placed Camp III at 21,150 feet. Snowfall delayed us for a week. On July 29 we placed Camp IV on the ridge between Teram III and I at 23,200 feet. After three attempts, on August 3 Oka, Kurotaki and Kudo reached the summit (24,219 feet). On the descent between Camp I and Base Camp Oka fell through a snow bridge into a stream on the surface of the glacier and was drowned.

Sumito Hanada, Hirosaki University, Japan

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