American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Gasherbrum V, East Peak, 1975

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Gasherbrum V, East Peak, 1978. Details, lacking in A.A.J., 1979, have appeared in Iwa To Yuki N° 69. The Japanese party led by Ryuichi Babagushi made the first ascent of the east peak (23,300 feet) of 24,020-foot Gasherbrum V. Base Camp and Camps I and II were made at 16,750, 18,000 and 19,000 feet on July 1, 5 and 13 respectively. A route on the southeast ridge was given up because of avalanches in favor of a rock route, also on the same ridge. The rock route was then abandoned because of knife-edges. A third route was worked out up séracs between the southeast and east ridges and Camp III was established at 21,000 feet on July 30. K. Mukaide, M. Sakaguchi and T. Sato reached the east peak on August 1. On August 2 the leader set out alone ahead of seven more climbers. They found him dead near the top in a crevasse.

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