American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Gasherbrum II

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Gasherbrum II. Actually we were two expeditions which combined to save money. We lived much off the food of the region, particularly chapatties, which contributed to much dysentery. We placed Base Camp at 17,400 feet and Camps I, II and III at 19,700, 22,650 and 24,275 feet. On July 31 Hilmar Sturm, Dr. Karl Hub and I reached the summit (26,362 feet), followed on August 4 by Kurt Diemberger, Walter Lösch, the leader Hanns Schell, Alfred Schwab, Wolf Weitzenböck and the Pakistani liaison officer Fayyaz Hussein. For Diemberger it was his fifth 8000er. The weather was generally terrible and much snow fell. We could not therefore attempt the south buttress, which had been our objective.

Reinhard Karl, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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