Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, Broad Peak Attempt

Publication Year: 1980.

Broad Peak Attempt. Our Spanish expedition consisted of Carlos Soria, Miguel López, Mariano Arrazola, Salvador Rivas, Luis López and me. The route we picked was the west spur, which rises some 11,000 feet and has difficult spots. This was the Polish route of 1975 and coincides in great part with the first-ascent route of the Austrians in 1957. The approach march took ten days. A porter lost his life when he fell into the river shortly before Payu Camp. We placed Base Camp on the central moraine of the Godwin Austen Glacier at 15,600 feet. The weather was the worst that has been seen in the Karakoram for many years. Despite the daily snow storms and unstable weather, we went ahead preparing the route on the lower part of Broad Peak. After leaving a supply dump at 17,225 feet, we placed one camp at 18,375 feet and a second at 20,675 feet. Above Camp II we reached the height of 22,000 feet and continued to relay supplies. However, the persistent bad weather, the unfavorable radio weather reports and the fast approaching date of the arrival of the porters to evacuate us led to the decision to give up. We left Base Camp on August 19.

Jerónimo López, Federatión Castellana de Montañismo