American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Nanga Parbat Attempt. Although our expedition under the leadership of Jean-Pierre Frésafond arrived in Islamabad on April 8, we had to wait for two weeks until we could take the road constructed along the banks of the Indus by the Chinese. And then an earthquake blocked the road, which was destroyed in several places. Not being able to reach the Rupal Face to attack the central buttress, we decided to try the nearest west face, cost what it might. We tried to climb the very long Mazeno ridge, but the weather was very bad for thirty consecutive days. Moreover the ridge must be 15 miles long and is difficult. We could not set off alpine-style for ten days because of the weather. After having climbed the first of the five Mazeno peaks, we gave up to return some other day. The team had 23 French members and two Pakistanis.

Louis Audoubert, Club Alpin Français

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