Asia, India—Kashmir and Ladakh, Kun and Nun

Publication Year: 1980.

Kun and Nun. Numerous ascents are now being made of Kun (23,250 feet) and Nun (23,410 feet). A Japanese group led by Kunihiko Kondo attempted both the northeast ridge and the west face of Kun in July. The liaison officer, Captain H.K. Joshi, accompanied the west-face group. On July 15 at 21,000 feet he showed the first signs of high-altitude pulmonary edema. He descended to 18,750 feet. A helicopter was called for by runner but could not arrive before the 19th. Joshi died in the hospital in Kargil. Another Japanese expedition led by Masato Katagiri was successful when on October 10 Jun’ichi Kawakami and Hiroaki Iwai reached the summit of Kun by the northeast ridge, the Czech route. Two Austrians were arrested for attempting Kun without permission. Nun was climbed by the first Indian civilian group when on July 11 Shrikanta Mitra, Pulak Mazumdar, Nitai Roy and Sherpas Mingma and Karma got to the top.

Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club