American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, P 6648 Attempt, near Nanda Devi and Trisul, 1975

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

P 6648 Attempt, near Nanda Devi and Trisul, 1978. Our expedition to Garhwal was organized by me and led by Stanislaw Zygmunt Zdrojew- ski. The other members were Marian Jarosz, Wojciech Jablonski, Ryszard Doniez, Pawel Murzyn, Józef, Lecki, Witold Gorzko and Dr. Tomasz Ruminski. We obtained permission to climb unnamed and probably virgin P 6648 (21,812 feet), which is between Devistan I and Devtoli. We left Lata on September 20, 1978 and arrived at Trisul Base Camp at Tridang (15,420 feet) on September 25. On the next day we established Advanced Base Camp on the left side of the Trisul Glacier at 16,400 feet. By September 30 we had established Camp I on a snow plateau at 18,000 feet. The route to there was not difficult but long. It led across two vast snow plateaus with separated, open crevasses. Snow above 16,750 feet was soft and heavy. On October 2 Murzyn and Zdrojewski, after a rest day at Camp I, climbed a snow slope and established Camp II at 19,700 feet below the col between P 6648 and Devtoli. The next day they reconnoitered to the col in part on steep snow, while Gorzko, Ruminski and I went to Camp I in support. Early on October 4 Murzyn and Zdrojewski started up P 6648’s southwest ridge, which was mostly snow-covered slate (UIAA III and IV). At four P.M., in partially cloudy weather, they reached what they assumed was the summit. Camps were evacuated from October 5 to 7 and we were back in Lata on October 10. Only after examination of our photos and slides and those of the 1978 Japanese Trisul and the Polish-English-American Changabang expeditions did it become apparent that Murzyn and Zdro- jewski in partially cloudy weather had probably reached the small rocky tower close to the col and still a mile from P 6648. The tower is about 6350 meters or 20,834 feet.

Andrzej Lach, Klub Wysokogórski, Warsaw, Poland

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