American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Chring We, Kalabaland Area

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Chiring We, Kalabaland Area. The Kalabaland Glacier lies east of the Milam Glacier. To the north lies Tibet, to the east, the Darma valley and western Nepal and to the south, the Chaudhara and Rajrambha peaks. Chiring We had never been attempted before. The Kalabaland Glacier was first visited by a small team from Delhi in 1967. In May of 1977 our association organized an expedition to this glacier which had logistic problems. The only ascent was that of P 18,372, a rocky pinnacle on the shoulder of Suli Top, made on June 9, 1977 by Zerksis Boga, Gombu and Govind Singh. In October of 1977 a team from the Himalayan Association, Calcutta, led by Minik Bannerjee, first penetrated the icefall and made the first ascent of Bamba Dhura. In 1979 our expedition of the Mountaineers of Bombay climbed the following peaks: Bamba Dhura (20,780 feet or 6331 meters; second ascent) on June 5 by Zerksis S. Boga and Chewang Tashi: From Camp III they reached the col between Bamba Dhura and Chiring We and followed the southeast ridge to the top; “Kalabaland Dhura” (20,030 feet or 6105 meters; first ascent) on June 6 by Vijay Kothari, Lakhpa Tsering and me: From Camp III we climbed to a col on the north of the peak and followed a steep gully to the top. It was heavily corniced on the Kalabaland-Milam watershed; P 19,450 (5928 meters; second ascent) on June 9 by Kali R. Bordiwala and Rajendra A. Desai: From Camp II they traversed to its eastern approaches and had an easy climb to this dome, situated on the watershed south of Kalabaland Dhura; Chiring We (21,520 feet or 6559 meters; first ascent) on June 10 by Boga, Lakhpa Tsering, Nayankumar Katira and Kami Tsering: From Camp III they climbed to the col between this peak and Bamba Dhura, ascended the north face to the west ridge, which they followed to the top. They fixed about 1500 feet of rope. This was the highest unclimbed peak in Kumaon.

Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club

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