American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri II, III, and V Traverse

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Dhaulagiri II, III and. V Traverse. Nineteen Japanese men were led by me, the only woman on the expedition. Base Camp was set up south of the peaks at 16,000 feet on the Tsaulabon Glacier. There on September 3 the climbers split. One group established Camps I, II, III, and IV on the east ridge of Dhaulagiri II at 19,000, 21,325, 22,300 and 24,450 feet and on October 13 Camp V on the summit of Dhaulagiri II at 25,429 feet. Meanwhile the others placed Camps I, II, III and IV on the south ridge of Dhaulagiri V at 17,725, 19,350, 21,000 and 23,450 feet and on October 13 Camp V on the summit of Dhaulagiri V at 24,992 feet. Having left Base Camp on October 11, on October 14 Kozo Komatsu, Takayoshi Chiba, Koji Nezu, Shigetsugu Araki and Yukio Koga set out from the summit of Dhaulagiri II, bivouacked at 24,775 feet between Dhaulagiri II and III, went over the top of Dhaulagiri III (24,316 feet), bivouacked again between Dhaulagiri III and V at 23,625 feet, reached the summit of Dhaulagiri V on October 16 and were back in Base Camp the 17th. Shigeto Ogura and Yoshitomi Okura set out from Dhaulagiri V on the 14th, made the traverse, got to Dhaulagiri II on the 16th and were back in Base Camp on October 18. Ogura became altitude sick on the night of the 15th and had to be helped over Dhaulagiri II by Takao Maki, Jun Wakabayashi and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen. Three other Japanese and six Sherpas also climbed Dhaulagiri II and four Japanese and six Sherpas also ascended Dhaulagiri V.

Michiko Takahashi, Japanese Alpine Club

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