American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Fang Attempt, Southeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Fang Attempt, Southeast Ridge. A 20-man Italian expedition, led by Arturo Bergamaschi, set out from Pokhara on September 5 with 15 Sherpas and 155 porters. They went up the Modi Khola to the south side of Annapurna. Base Camp at 14,100 feet was reached on September 11. They placed Camp I at 16,400 feet on the 16th. Camp II up the glacier at 17,725 feet was pitched on September 26. Above, there was a 3000-foot steep rock and mixed rock-and-ice cliff, where they took six days preparing the route and fixing several thousand feet of rope. They reached the heavily corniced crest of the southeast ridge at 20,850 feet on October 2, but the snow was so unstable and the weather continued to be so unsettled that the decision was made to give up the attempt. When descending from Camp I to Base Camp, one of the climbers slipped and was injured so badly that he had to be helicoptered out. (The Editor is grateful to Professor Bergamaschi for this information.)

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