American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, East Ridge Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Manaslu, East Ridge Attempt. Our Argentine expedition was composed of Guillermo Vieiro, leader, Dr. Ernesto Fiorentini, Jorge Jassen, Hector Cuiñas, Edgardo Porcellana, Gerardo Maioli, Marcelo Aguilas, Pablo Castiarena, Avo Nakachian, Ulises Vitale, Julio Corradi, Jorge A. de León, Diego Rueda and me. We set out from Trisuli Bazar with 300 porters via the Buri Gandaki gorge. It took 15 days to get to the village of Sama. Base Camp was finally installed on September 1 at 14,100 feet at the foot of the unclimbed east ridge. To get Camp I established took almost two weeks and 3500 feet of fixed rope. The exposed route was subject to much rockfall. Camp I was at 17,000 feet. Camp II was set up shortly after that at 20,000 feet. While loads were being ferried up to Camps I and II, the route to Camp III was being prepared. The weather was quite bad with heavy snowfall. On October 8 Porcellana and one other were caught in a windslab avalanche going between Camps I and II. Porcellana was killed with a broken neck. His death and continuing bad weather forced us to give up the attempt. The highest point reached was 21,500 feet.

Peter Bruchhausen

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Comments