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Asia, Nepal, Thamserku, North Face Attempt

Thamserku, North Face Attempt. A Sangaku Doshikai expedition was made up of Shomi Suzuki, leader, Katsuhuki Masunaga, Koji Okano, Noboru Okada and Dr. Toshitaka Sakano. Base Camp was established at 12,800 feet on April 2 and Advanced Base Camp at 16,000 feet on April 10. The steep north face reminded them of the Grandes Jorasses. They fixed ropes on the central buttress for ten days up to 18,700 feet, where on April 21 all five occupied a snow cave bivouac. They worked upwards alpine style, bivouacking at 19,350 and 20,000 feet though it was difficult to find sites on the very steep ice and snow. They then traversed right on steep ice at 20,675 feet. On April 27 Okada fell ill and the doctor thought it dangerous to continue. They descended with still 1000 feet left to climb. A full report, photos and diagrams appear in Iwa To Yuki N° 70.