Asia, Nepal, Thamserku, Southwest Face

Publication Year: 1980.

Thamserku, Southwest Face. The expedition was composed of Takeshi Kimura, leader, Satoshi Kimura, Sakae Hosogai, Takashi Kamo, Yasuhiko Hayashi, Hideaki Goto, Takashi Hayakawa, Yuji Mizutani and Kozo Naraki. They placed Base Camp at 14,750 feet on March 20 and Advanced Base Camp at 17,400 feet on March 22. They climbed a ridge on the face to the west col and thence up the west ridge. Camp I was pitched on April 6 at 19,000 feet. The route from Camp I to Camp II was difficult and ropes were fixed on the steep ice. Camp II was placed at 20,675 feet just below the col on April 16. The first two summit attempts from there failed. The route was then prepared along the corniced and gendarmed west ridge, which was much more difficult than anticipated. Camp III was placed on the ridge at 21,000 feet. On April 27 S. Kimura and Hosogai climbed 15 rock and mixed pitches (UIAA Grade IV) to reach the jagged central peak, which was less than 100 feet lower than the summit. They bivouacked there before continuing on to the summit (21,680 feet) on April 28. An article with photos and diagrams appears in Iwa To Yuki N° 70.