American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, Southeast Ridge, Second Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Aconcagua, Southeast Ridge, Second Ascent. Spaniards Xabier Erro, Martín Zabaleta and Juan Hugas made the second ascent of the southeast ridge of Aconcagua, which was first climbed in 1953 by the Swiss couple Marmillod, Argentines Grajales and Lieutenant Ibáñez. They completed the climb on January 2 and after they traversed the easy ridge from the south to the north summit, which was not done by the first-ascent party, they were greeted by Felipe Uriarte, José Luis Sesma and José Ignacio Artaraz, who had climbed the normal route. They began the climb on December 29, 1978 and bivouacked at the foot of the ridge at 17,400 feet. After a rest day, they continued, at one point forcing a difficult chimney which avoided a longer way around taken by the first-ascent party. A second bivouac was at 18,000 feet. The fourth bivouac was at 21,000 feet. They reached the south summit at eleven A.M.

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