American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, Gorra de Hielo, Viluyo I and II, Hancopiti IV and VII

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Ancohuma, Gorra de Hielo, Viluyo I and II, Hancopiti IV and VII. Our expedition established Base Camp on the east of the Illampu-An- cohuma group. (See map in A.A.J., 1979, p. 250.) We spent 15 days in the region climbing alpine style. We made the following ascents: Viluyo II (c. 18,000 feet) via north ridge on July 5 by Guy Lemoine, André Zagdoun, Michel Le Grèves; Gorra de Hielo (18,700 feet) via west col on July 12 by Denis Poulet, Le Grèves (We were attempting the Pico del Norte but gave up because of deep powder snow and huge crevasses on the Illampu Glacier.); Viluyo I (18,373 feet) via east ridge and Viluyo II from Viluyo I on July 14 by Yvette Jupin, Jean Therisod; Ancohuma (21,096 feet) via north ridge on July 16 by Le Grèves, Poulet, Zagdoun; Hancopiti IV (19,090 feet) via northwest face on July 19 by Lemoine, Poulet; and Hancopiti VII (19,024 feet) via west ridge on July 19 by Le Grèves, Zagdoun. We had good weather except for two days of snow.

Michel Le Grèves, Club Alpin Français

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