South America, Bolivia, Illimani Norte, North Face

Publication Year: 1980.

Illimani Norte, North Face. Franco de Fachinetti, Roberto Giberna, Tony Klingendrath, Dr. Giorgio Chiriaco from Italy, with the help of Father Giuseppi Ferrari, who has lived many years in Boliva, made a new route on Illimani Norte. After a training climb on Huayna Potosí, we reached Mina Bolsa Blanca under Illimani Norte’s north face. To get onto the glacier we had to cross a rocky pass. Instead of climbing the rock ridge, we ascended the icefall which is connected to the principal glacier. We fixed 1200 feet of rope on this section, not only because of the difficulty of the climbing technically but because of the threat of falling séracs. From the upper part of the glacier we climbed on the left side of the north face to get to the rock-and-ice ridge. Some 650 feet before the summit, this ridge joins the top of the Argentine ridge. We reached the summit on July 20.

Roberto Ive, Club Alpino ltaliano

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