South America, Bolivia, Illampu-Ancohuma Group and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real

Climb Year: N/A. Publication Year: 1980.

Illampu-Ancohuma Group and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. The magnificent cirques east of Illampu and Ancohuma lured me back this year, accompanied by fellow Coloradans Tom Dunwiddie, Tom Flood, Ron Osborn, Pete Weickmann, and Tom Worth. On June 1 we drove over a frigid 15,700-foot pass to the Mina Candelaria. That afternoon, we hiked down to the remote village of Coocó. From there we helped herd 12 llamas to Base Camp (14,800 feet) with our gringo curses and ice axes. This site is, unfortunately, becoming increasingly trashed-out—

the year’s most noticeable addition being a quantity of white condensed milk containers littering the lake next to camp. On June 3, all but Flood and I climbed the southeast face of Viluyo II (5550 meters, 18,204 feet), traversing from it to Viluyo III (5250 meters, 17,220 feet). The next two days we moved as a group to a camp below the east face of An cohuma (6430 meters, 21,096 feet). On June 6, Dunwiddie and Flood climbed the right-hand of two couloirs on the left side of the face (55° to 60° ice) to finish on the south ridge. Thirty yards from the summit, they found tracks of an Italian expedition that had completed the direct east face ascent a week before. On the same day, Osborn and I climbed the east-northeast face, meeting Dunwiddie and Flood near the top before descending the northeast ridge with them. This south to north traverse of Ancohuma was repeated the following day by Weickmann and Worth. Also on June 7, Osborn climbed Hancopiti I (5867 meters, 19,243 feet) via its northwest ridge, then headed west to Quimsacollo (5893 meters, 19,333 feet( while Dunwiddie, Flood, and I climbed the north face (55° to 60° ice; first ascent) of Lloka de Ancohuma (6055 meters, 19,860 feet), turning east to “Espalda” (see map: A.A.J., 1979, p. 250). I continued alone along the ridge to Quimsacollo. On June 8, Flood soloed the knife-edged west ridge of Hancopiti I while the rest of us turned to 1000-foot unclimbed south face of Llihirini (5970 meters, 19,581 feet). Dunwiddie and Worth climbed a broad, steep snow couloir which runs continuously up the face; Osborn and I, the rock spur to its right (F7). Getting to the summit involved traversing a third of a mile along an airy knife-edge in soft, afternoon snow. On June 12, we were once again ready to climb and so packed nine days of food to a site on the north side of Kunotawa (5950 meters, 19,516 feet). The following day, Dunwiddie and Worth attempted Illampu (6362 meters, 20,867 feet) via the severely corniced southeast ridge, but ran out of time after passing most of the difficulty. On the 14th, Osborn and I succeeded on the central buttress of Illampu’s east face, a third ascent (see A.A.J., 1975, Plates 61-62 and article, pp. 173-6), bivouacking in descent of the southeast ridge. This climb was repeated in a single day on June 17 by Dunwiddie and Worth who, meanwhile, had climbed Kunotawa by the west ridge on the 14th and all three summits of Huayna Illampu (6056 meters, 19,863 feet) on June 15. Also on the 17th, Osborn and I made the second ascent of Pico del Norte’s 60° ice face (see Plate 63; A.A.J., 1975) — nearly getting wiped out midway up by an avalanche falling from the grim looking hanging glacier at the top of the wall. We reached the summit (6030 meters, 19,778 feet) in four hours of climbing and descended the east ridge, climbing Gorra de Hielo (5700 meters, 18,696 feet) on the way. Osborn climbed Huayna Illampu and Kunotawa on the 19th. Climbing from Base Camp continued unabated two days further: Dunwiddie and Worth did Viluyo I (5600 meters, 18,368 feet) and II on June 20 and Hancopiti II (5717 meters, 18,751 feet) and III (5770 meters, 18,925 feet) on June 21; Osborn climbed P 5600 (18,368 feet) north of Hancopiti VII on June 21. Finally, on the 23rd, we walked out to the Candelaria, catching a ride to Sorata that very afternoon. Other ascents in the cordillera include Cerro Condoriri (5648 meters, 18,525 feet) by Dunwiddie and Worth on June 29; Ala Sur (5482 meters, 17,985 feet) via a steep couloir of rotten ice on the south-southwest face (facing the lakes) and southwest ridge by Dunwiddie, Worth on June 30; Huallomen (5465 meters, 17,925 feet) by Dunwiddie, Worth on July 1; Fabulosa (5300 meters, 17,487 feet) by Flood, Osborn, and I on May 20; and Huayna Potosí (6096 meters, 19,996 feet) by Flood, Osborn, and I on May 26.

Douglas Cannalte, Unaffiliated

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