American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Hualca Hualca, Cordillera Volcánica

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Hualca Hualca, Cordillera Volcánica. An Italian expedition had as members Celso Salvetti, leader, Vittorio Meroni, Fabio and Mariola Masciadri, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Mario Bignami and Ludovico Gaetani. Their first objective had been a complete traverse of the Coropuna group but it was changed to the southwest face of Hualca Hualca (19,766 feet), which had been twice climbed from the north (Culbert in 1966 and Italians in 1972). They drove to Base Camp at 13,125 feet. They were still 20 miles from the face and 3000 feet lower. Cazziniga fell ill and Salvetti took him back to Arequipa. Meroni, Bignami and Gaetani set off for the mountain. They camped the second night near the bottom of the face at 17,400 feet. On August 2 they climbed the crevassed 50° slope. Séracs nearly barred the way but they traversed and got to the top.

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