South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, P 5297, Jurau Group

Publication Year: 1980.

P 5297, Jurau Group. Italians from Trieste, Renzo Zambonelli, leader, Luciano Cergol, Piero Gerin, Sandra Matjak, Tullio Piemontese, Fulvio Cekada and Antonio Alberti, established Base Camp at 13,775 feet below Juraucocha in early August. They established a camp on the glacier west of the col between Quesillo and P 5297, which lies just south of it. The slope leading to the col was crevassed in the lower part; the upper part was a very steep 500-foot-high ice couloir (65°), which ended on a ledge, which they took to a trench that led up onto the 16,830-foot col. They fixed rope on this section. Camp II was on the col. From there Piemontese and Cergol climbed the ridge to the summit of P 5297 (17,379 feet). The same pair attempted to climb Quesillo (5600 meters or 18,373 feet) by its south ridge. The climb was mostly steep snow and ice. They found very steep going and very soft, unstable snow on the final part and quit 250 feet below the summit. (This information was graciously supplied by Signor Zambonelli.)

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