South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhaush, Yerupajá, West Face

Publication Year: 1980.

Yerupajá, West Face. The best climb our group did was the west face of Yerupajá. Climbing alpine-style with a haul bag, a quart of water and a rack of ice screws, Tom Pulaski and Geoff Conley from July 9 to 11 managed to do the 28 pitches of blue ice slightly left of the center of the face, just to the left of the rock bands. I believe this was the first time the whole route has been done. Before going to the Huayhuash, we climbed in the Cordillera Blanca. On June 21 Conley and I did the regular route on Pisco while Pulaski and John Pearson did the direct south face route. On June 30 Pulaski and Pearson climbed Huandoy Norte by the southeast face.

James Newberry