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South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupajá, Northwest Ridge

Yerupajá, Northwest Ridge. Dave Wilkinson and I visited the Cordillera Huayhuash and climbed the northwest ridge of Yerupajá (21,765 feet). We reached the summit on August 13, the climb having taken us two-and-a-half days. It took a further day-and-a-half to traverse the ridge to the col between Yerupajá Grande and Yerupajá Sur and to descend the west face. (Technically this was the first ascent. In 1968 New Zealanders Roger Bates and Graeme Dingle climbed the northwest ridge to the top of the north peak. Later both of them climbed Yerupajá by the normal route but descended from Yerupajá Grande over the north peak and then descended the northwest ridge. They did not ascend the part between the north and the main summits, but they did descend that section.—Editor. )

Richard Renshaw, Alpine Climbing Group