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South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo and Tayapampa

Alpamayo and Tayapampa. In the first part of our expedition we attempted unsuccessfully to climb Alpamayo using the classic approach route from the Quebrada Alpamayo. The condition of the north glacier was so bad because of the lack of snow, big crevasses and séracs and the weather was so unfavorable with rain, snow and hail that we set out again and approached via the Quebrada Tayapampa, which we reached only on July 25. On July 28 Jacques Collaer, Jean-Claude Debels, Daniel Bogaert, Geneviève Perikel and I climbed Alpamayo by the north ridge while Georges Gillis, Dominique Goeders and my wife Thérèse Som- macal climbed Tayapampa by the east ridge. On July 29 Guy Daffe, Marcel Charlier and Evelyne Bertin repeated the Alpamayo climb.

Renzo Lorenzi, Club Alpin Belge