American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpanayo, Kitaraju, Pilanco and Loyaqjirka

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Alpamayo, Kitaraju, Pilanco and Loyaqjirka. On August 6 Juan Ignacio Lorente, Angel Rosen, Juan Ramón Arrúe, Ricardo Gallardo, Quique de Pablos, Luis María Sáenz de Olazagoitia, José Urbieta, Felipe Uriarte, Martín Zabaleta, Rafael Chávarri, Juan José San Sebastián, Federico Colomina and I, Spaniards, and Glicerio Henostroza and Vitaliano Alvarón, Peruvians, left Colcas for the Quebrada de los Cedros. We placed Base Camp on the lake Jankarurish on August 9. We placed high camps in the north col of Alpamayo and at the foot of the north face of Kitaraju. Uriarte, Zabaleta, Pablos, Olazagoitia, Urbieta, Chávarri and Lorente climbed Kitaraju by its north face. On August 20 Henostroza and Alvarón on one rope and San Sebastián and I on the other climbed Alpamayo by its north ridge. Later Zabaleta, Uriarte, Pablos and Chávarri climbed the southwest face of Alpamayo. Despite much bad weather, other climbs were made: Pilanco and Loyaqjirka. Attempts on Santa Cruz and Abasraju failed.

Emilio Hernando, Federación Vasca de la Montaña, Spain

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