South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Oeste, 1975
Huandoy Oeste, 1978. To clarify the new route we did (A.A.J., 1979, p. 229), I add the following. We climbed from the Cook Glacier to the plateau via a small ridge in the center of the ice wall to the right of Ortenburger’s 1954 route. The ridge ended at an overhanging wall but we found a crevasse which split the wall and curved up to the plateau. We had hoped to climb the north summit but got caught in an avalanche near the summit which nearly buried us and so we climbed the west summit instead.