South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado de Carás I

Publication Year: 1980.

Nevado de Carás I. A Spanish expedition from Gijón established its Base Camp at the eastern end of the Laguna Parón at 13,450 feet. They then placed Camp I at 16,750 feet at the foot of the glacier southeast of Carás I or Nevado de Carás de Parón. Two attempts were made on the southeast ridge, which ended in failure at about 18,500 feet because of the unconsolidated soft snow and porous ice. Juan José Iglesias, José Antonio Moral and Gonzalo Suárez climbed the glacier to camp in the col between Carás I and II. On July 25 they climbed the northeast ridge to the summit (19,767 feet). This was the route first climbed by Americans in 1971. (We thank Señor Suárez for this information.)