Iowa Mountaineers Climbs

Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Author: James Ebert. Climb Year: 1978. Publication Year: 1980.

During July, John Ebert and I led a large group to the Quebrada Honda. Chaco (17,454 feet) was climbed by 42 of the 55 participants between July 13 and 24. A determined attempt on Chinchey failed. Dean Smith and Bob Wilson climbed Tocllaraju (19,790 feet) on July 22. Akilpo Sur (18,111 feet) was climbed by Gerry Roach and John Ritchey on July 18, by Kurt Hofer, Hans Janscher, Rudi Felderspieler, Bill Peterson, Mike McWherter, Dave Osborn, Brent Smith on July 21 and by Jim Hagen, Gordon Baustian, Richard Piercy and Allen Hamilton on July 25. From a 17,000-foot camp on the Copap plateau the following climbs were made: Copap I (18,304 feet) via the north ridge by Norman Benton, Hamilton, Bob Gestell, Dr. Arnold Pines, Bill Reenstra on July 20; Copap II via the steep snow ridge between Copap II and III and along the difficult south ridge of Copap II to the summit and then to Copap I by Benton and Hans Steyskal on July 21; Copap III by 23 members; Copap IV by 11 members; Copap V by 5 members. On July 20 Olle and Susan Swartling, Fran and Debra Zonay, Wayne Lapham, Baustian, Hagen, Charlie Brasher, Bill Miller and Richard and Leslie Piercy traversed Copap IV and V. Bad weather hampered climbing on Huascarán and drove the first party back. Cleve Armstrong and Steyskal climbed Huascarán Norte (21,833 feet) from the Garganta and scouted the route for the second party. The next day Wilson, Jim Prichard, Benton, McWherter, Osborn, Peterson, Hofer, Janscher, Gestell and Bob Bamberger reached this summit. The south peak was not attempted because of deep snow above the Garganta, the first time it has not been attempted on the Club’s Peruvian expeditions.

James Ebert