American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Colombia, Pico Colón and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Pico Colón and Other Peaks. We entered the Sierra by way of Nabusimake (San Sebastián) in January. The Indians, who own the land around the range, gave our Venezuelan expedition permission to stay twelve days in all and charged us $10 per day. European and North American expeditions, with ample means at their disposal, are responsible for having thus spoiled the Indians. In the short period of time allowed we made three climbs. Rosa Pabón and I made the second ascent of the rock peak (c. 5200 meters, 17,022 feet) south of Santander (probably ascended by Mexicans, who named it “Ancaymotul” after their club). We climbed its east face, good steep rock and snow, a new route. Then I soloed Tairona (c. 16,500 feet), reaching the characteristic notch that shows in its northwest ridge, then up the ridge to the summit. We also climbed Colón by the south glacier, to its west gap and to the summit.

José Betancourt, Club Excursionismo y Andinismo de la Universidad de los Andes, Mérida, Venezuela.

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