American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Forel, Direct South Face and Nine First Ascents, East Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Forel, Direct South Face and Nine First Ascents, East Greenland. The expedition of the Goslar-Westharz section of the German Alpine Club was composed of Theo Hilz, Wilhelm Huber, Klaus Suess and me as leader. We were in the field from June 19 to July 18. We were taken to our first Base Camp at 67° 02´ N, 36° 45´ W and picked up at our second at 66° 54´ N, 36° 50´ W by helicopter. We moved by sled between the Base Camps. We made the first ascents of nine mountains between 8665 and 9954 feet and the fourth ascent of Forel (11,024 feet) by a new route, the direct 2000-foot south face, which had a maximum angle of 60°. The latter climb was made on July 6. Most of the first ascents were made from High Camp II (HC II) at 67° 02´ N, 35° 30´ W (8350 feet). They were P 2641 (8665 feet; 2 kms southwest of HC II) by northwest rock ridge; P 2827 (9275 feet; 8 kms east of HC II) by southwest snow face; P 2841 (9321 feet; 3 kms east of P 2902) by north snow slope; P 2810 (9219 feet; 4 kms east of P 2902) by west snow slope; P 2799 (9183 feet; 10 kms east of HC II) by northwest snow slope; P. 2902 (9521 feet; 5 kms northeast of HC II) by south snow slope; P 2710 (8891 feet; 2 kms north of P 2841) by southwest snow slope; P 3043 (9954 feet; 5 kms northwest of HC II) by southeast couloir; P 2890 (9482 feet; 10 kms northeast of Base Camp II) by southeast rock-and-snow ridge.

Ulrich Schum, Deutscher Alpenverein

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