American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, North West Territory—Logan Mountains, Lotus Flower Tower

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Lotus Flower Tower. On July 2 Mark Wagner, Doug Feil, Mark Hendrix and I flew to Glacier Lake and soon were established in Tombstone Meadows. Poor weather kept us on the ground for several days. Finally a half-clearing allowed Hendrix and me an unsuccessful but delightful attempt on the small peak to the east of Huey Spire (nicknamed “Unicorn Peak”). Again in a half-clearing we took a mud bath on Mount Harrison Smith. The next clearing in the weather found us dashing off to attempt our main goal—a free ascent of the Lotus Flower Tower. Five days later we stumbled back into camp, having climbed all but four pitches free, weathered heavy rains, snow showers, a forced bivouac on top of the Tower and a 14-hour descent in full blizzard conditions. It has been said before, but the trash problem is really getting out of hand. Please treat this beautiful area with the respect it deserves.

Larry Thaxton, Unaffiliated

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