American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska

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  • Publication Year: 1980

Cirque of the Unclimbables. The first Japanese expedition to the Logan Mountains was composed of Koichi Ezaki, Takashi Kuranishi, Shingemitsu Murai and Harutoshi Toyota. They flew to Glacier Lake on July 10. On July 15 Ezaki and Kuranishi did a new route on the south face of Mount Meringue (F8). On July 27 Toyota and Kuranishi climbed the east buttress of Sir James McBrien. They attempted unsuccessfully a free climb of the Lotus Flower Tower and a new route on Middle Huey Spire. Previous to this they had attempted Mount Logan in the second half of June. They reached within a few hundred feet of the top of the east peak via the east ridge but bad weather prevented their reaching the summit.

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