American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Englehard, Northwest Couloir, Columbia Icefield

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

A ries Peak, North Face. In mid-September John Lauchlin and I did a new route on Aries Peak, a somewhat unobtrusive formation 10 miles south of the Saskatchewan River crossing west of the Banff-Jasper highway. We climbed the prominent rock-and-ice face on the mountain’s northern flank. During a day and a half we encountered 1000 feet of rock (up to F8) and 2300 feet of ice (up to Scots grade 4) on the hanging glacier that comprises the upper two-thirds of the route. Rockfall was minimal and the hanging glacier appears to be receding, making the route relatively free from objective hazards.

James Blench, Alpine Club of Canada

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