American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, Catenary Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Mount Logan, Catenary Ridge. Frank Sarnquist, Al Bergland, Steve Ericson and I had chosen to repeat the popular east ridge of Mount Logan. Though the north side of Logan was clear after eight days of waiting, we were still unable to land at the foot of the east ridge. Our patience tired, we opted for the Catenary Ridge, having been advised it was of about the same difficulty as the east ridge. In retrospect, we know this is false. Three days into the climb, Sarnquist wrenched his back lifting his pack incorrectly and was flown out. For five days we other three ferried loads over the McArthur col and the two approach peaks. Thereupon we proceeded alpine-style up the Catenary Ridge itself, reaching the east summit a week later, on June 23. We descended via the Arctic Institute and the King Trench. We had to wait out a four-day storm before the final air pickup.

Jocelyn C. Glidden

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