American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada Range, Shuteye Ridge, South Face, The Big Sleep

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Shuteye Ridge, South Face, The Big Sleep. This face is visible from the south on the Shuteye Pass Trail. The formation is just above the letters “Sh” in the words Shuteye Pass on the USGS fifteen-minute quadrangle “Shuteye Pass.” Doug Mathews and I climbed this enjoyable route which follows a line 100 to 150 feet right of a prominent black water streak. From a ledge 30 feet off the ground, climb four very long pitches to the base of the headwall. Most of this is F5 and F6 climbing with extremely long runouts on solid granite. A #2 Friend is essential to prevent placement of another bolt on one anchor. The fifth pitch climbs a F9 fist crack to a face with two bolts. Traverse straight left from the second bolt and climb past knobs (F9, long runout) to an easy right-slanting crack which is followed for one or two pitches to a walk-off. Most pitches are at least 160 feet long. NCCS III, F9. Shuteye Ridge, Voodoo Child. This route is on an unnamed 400-foot tower east of the dome with The Big Sleep. On the next day after climbing The Big Sleep, Doug and I climbed this excellent one-pitch route. (The approach takes approximately 30-40 minutes.) There is an undercling left around a ten-foot roof to start the climb. The crux is a steep twenty-foot-long section of 1¼-1½ inch crack. Rappel from double bolts. NCCS I, F10 or 11.

Stephen McCabe, Manx Mountaineers

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