American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada Range, Magician Needle, Sidewalk Surprise, The Needles

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

Magician Needle, Sidewalk Surprise, The Needles. In September Dick Leversee and I climbed this route on the east face of Magician Needle. From the broad saddle between Magician and its neighbor to the east, notice a prominent ramp, “The Sidewalk,” diagonaling up the face to the right. Start at the ramp’s base and follow it for about one-and-a-half pitches to where the wall steepens. From here climb up and right past a bolt to a prominent flake. Climb the right side of the flake and belay at its top. The third pitch continues straight up the face 50 feet to a bolt. Move up and right, past another bolt, to an arch and traverse right to a third bolt. Here mantel over the arch and belay. The last pitch follows a second arch left for a few feet, then heads right and up a thin crack to the summit. The route has exceptionally fine face and friction climbing on excellent rock. NCCS III, F10.

David Ohst, Unaffiliated

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