North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada Range, East Fuller Butte, Fear of Flying
East Fuller Butte, Fear of Flying. In September John Stoddard and I climbed this route between the Southeast Face and the Songs to a Morning Star routes. The route climbs the 350-foot-high thin crack just to the left of the Songs route. A small ledge to the left of an oak tree marks the start of the route. Face climb past two bolts (F11 + ) and layback to an arch. Undercling right (F10) just around a corner to the belay. Face-climb left directly out of the dihedral and on to the wavy face. Climb up and left past three bolts (F10) to the main objective, a long, thin crack which splits the blank face. Continue up the superb crack-system (some F10) for three pitches to a belay at its end. Face-climb to double bolts and then to a large flake. Our route has joined Songs to a Morning Star by this point and continues with it up to the large ledge and around the summit blocks to the left. The upper pitches include long runouts on climbing of F4 to 6. NCCS III+, F11+.
Stephen McCabe, Manx Mountaineers