American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada Range, West Fuller Butte, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

West Fuller Butte, South Face. This route and the next are easily visible from a logging road southwest of the two buttes. Easy Wind climbs a flake which lies flat against the face to the west of a prominent gully on West Fuller Butte. Fourth-class climbing leads to the base of the flake. Chimney and layback (F8) to the top of the flake. A long face pitch (F8) protected by two bolts continues to large blocks. The third pitch leads left around these blocks to easier climbing. This route was climbed in July 1977 using roped soloing techniques. NCCS II, F8. Gerri Dayharsh and I climbed Zephyr, the route just left of Easy Wind in June 1979. From a manzanita-covered ledge, climb up and left past two bolts 90 feet to a small right-facing open-book. Follow the book up, then right, past a wild three-foot-wide undercling to double bolts. The easy third pitch leads to a huge ledge which is followed right, almost to its end. An unprotected F5 pitch is climbed to the summit. NCCS II, F9 or 10.

Stephen McCabe, Manx Mountaineers

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.